Fashion is often predicted to die. This is a viewpoint that has been raised since the 1970s of the last century, and it is very inflammatory and continues to have news value: we are told that fashion is collapsing; fashion is breaking up; fashion needs to change; fashion is over. And this view has continued to ferment in recent years.

The reasons for the decline of the traditional fashion system have been found. In fact, this self-existing timepiece appears. It is a fashion system that is based on the concept of seasonal transition. After a century and a half, it has been declining. It is very obvious from insignificant to now. . The emergence of high-grade garments has been demonstrated to be influenced by uselessism. This is not related to fashion, but is a product of a certain historical condition.

Recently, the early autumn and early spring series that contribute two-thirds of the total sales of the brand each year, its irresistible trend seems to have affected the traditional fashion show twice a year. Taking a look at the fashion invading influence of fast fashion brands, Zara, the fast-fashion brand, had revenues of more than 13.2 billion pounds in 2014, and H&M was 13.5 billion pounds. In contrast, the luxury brand Louis Vuitton was 6.7 billion pounds.

In any case, from the perspective of earning wealth, there are indeed some things that are not quite right in the fashion industry today. Let's take a look at the fashion industry that has been bleak over the past five years due to the departure of designers, mental breakdown and suicide. Lee Alexander McQueen's death in February 2010 and John Galliano's departure from Dior have received great attention, but it is followed by a series of severe earthquakes including Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander, Rochas and Balenciaga; this year Gucci, Lanvin The selection of creative directors of Donna Karan, Dior and Balenciaga has also changed.

The replacement of fashion rulers is nothing new, but the speed of personnel turnover has indeed reached an alarming point. Prior to this, Dior's artistic director Raf Simons and Lanvin's creative director Alber Elbaz were among the biggest fashion events of the year in October's abrupt departure. They even scornfully told the speed of the industry's alternation.

In October of last year, Raf Simons talked about Christian Dior's strong demand for huge machinery and how he hired two creative teams to be responsible for the three series of the six series of the year that the brand wanted to demonstrate, although there are still some products that do not contain Inside, as well as shuttle between the two teams to find a certain amount of inspiration. It can be seen that it seems that every designer will inevitably encounter such a barrier as creating tiredness, even if most of the media think that they are leaving for personal reasons or disagreements with the company. The contradiction between commercial machines and designing creative talents continues to emerge, and the fashion industry can continue to develop healthily. This is indeed a big question mark.

Alber Elbaz completed his Lanvin call for the big curtain show. A week later, he accepted an interview with the media and tapped the recorder to say helplessly: “We don’t listen, we record.” He then lamented the rhythm of today’s fashion and people’s dependence on digital technology. . On November 4th last year, Alber Elbaz even said: "Can we become an entertainment industry?"

It is foolish to condemn an ​​industry devoted to changes that are degraded by taste rather than actual season. However, the dismissal incidents that occurred in the past 12 months can also highlight the essence of fashion. That is fast fashion is no longer just a profitable model, but also affects the attitude of the fashion industry at all levels.

Therefore, New York Fashion Week will be challenging a fashion system that will be displayed around the clock with the "Buy Now" label. Thakoon is reorganizing its business and was acquired by the Cao Qifeng family in December last year. Rebecca Minkoff will present her 2016 spring-summer collection in February, which usually showcases the fall/winter collection, so that her customers can purchase it immediately. Burbeery and Moschino also made changes in order to enable customers to immediately purchase the clothes displayed on the T stage. Jean Monnier, head of luxury retailer Monnier Freres, said that 75% of Moschino's products and major accessories will be released immediately after release.

The American Association of Fashion Designers Diane von Furstenberg expressed his opinion on the prevailing season-based design arrangement: "Some places are already wrong. Everything needs to be restarted." Rebecca Minkoff is the latest one to question the value of fashion shows. The designer, she believes, will not be able to visit the store until 4 to 6 months after the show shows. At that time, consumers have lost interest in the style because they have seen too much in celebrities and social media. Will not buy these products again.

However, in the face of such a huge change, does the speed of clothes delivery really make them better or more worth the wait? Is the fashion industry so obsessed with speed now part of the problem rather than a solution? Mentioning Louis Vuitton at the same time mentioned such as H & M and Zara, Pull & Bear, MassimoDutti, Bershka and a series of high street brand giant retailers Inditex is also a relatively new topic.

Indeed, the former will face challenges from the latter. Some retailers now cut their series to increase sales and avoid more products being copied by High Street brands. Chanel's fashion department** Bruno Pavlovsky said: “For us, this is a series of six in a year. Every two months is a new series for us.” Sidney Toledano, Dior’s CEO, added that he mentioned his clients. "They always look forward to new things."

However, paradoxically, Louis Vuitton’s CEO Michael Burke revealed a completely different point of view when interviewed by the media next to the Palm Springs cliffs of the LV 2016 holiday series in May this year: unless you are a fashion boutique, fashion brand 3 It is very tiring to update once a month or six months, making it difficult for companies to adapt.

Without doubt, what is certain is that the entire industry is confused, including designers and fashion reporters who are watching them. When brands advocate luxury, stripping themselves from fashion, trying to create eternal but unpredictable, satisfying all consumers' needs for new things, all the great catalysts are: fission.

However, fashion is a business first, and the coupling of trade and innovation is a crucial factor. Right now, this balance has been broken. This is the fundamental problem in the fashion industry today. Designers are no longer treated as people, but are machines that produce clothes, ideas, and quotes; and the machine must be easily opened and closed.

Raf Simons described a contributing factor to his departure as a ruthless pace, but others believe that there is a lack of overall control. His terms of reference are limited to women's wear, and there is no need to worry about store design, advertising, and the huge beauty business. According to reports, Alber Elbaz and Lanvin's boss Wang Xiaolan clash. After his dismissal, he issued a sharp personal statement and expressed the hope that Lanvin "discovered the business vision he needed." According to friends of Alber Elbaz, earlier, Alber Elbaz was increasingly dissatisfied with the management's decision.

I don't know if 2015 will become a disaster in the history of contemporary fashion, or just a precursor to a series of events. Although there are some mistakes in today's high fashion, bubbles have existed for a long time under the bright surface, and will be broken sooner or later in the last decade. Designers are no longer happy, retailers are restless, they can't trust the clothes they buy, international markets are volatile, and fluctuations in brand profits and losses are equally worrying.

What remedy? I am not sure as well. But what is certain is that we don't have to produce more clothes for the saturated market anymore. Accelerating the pace of fashion updates is not necessarily the solution, although it can be counted as a novel concept to combat “consumer fatigue”.

However, what about designer fatigue? Or the clothes that appear in the store, the images on the screen, the magazines, all the fatigue of fashion? Or can all of us, including designers, customers, and reporters, be tired of being stuffed with so many things for a while? Maybe it's like a handbag that is rough but sold out. Before this damn industry collapses, we all need a little breathing space.